Embroidery / سوزنی کاری

34° 5’ 1.1616”N, 74° 47’ 50.5356” E

Srinagar

Altitude

1,585 m above sea level

Gender

53.0 % Men

47.0% Females

Population

1,660,000

The practice of Sozni Kari traveled from Iran and has been kept alive by the women of this region who are also known as Wosta or Ustaad.

This form of embroidery is handed down in generations. It is seen on exquisite pashmina shawls that are worn on weddings, prayer mats and rugs that are for everyday use.

Women observe and replicate the colours of the seasons for their embroidery.

Wostas use a unique signature on their craft that sets their work apart from others.

This code is the identity of a particular Wosta and her craftwork.

Step 1

Pashmina, cotton or wool as the base layer is sourced from the local market.

Step 2

It is then dyed.

Step 3

The design is then traced by perforating and rubbing the pattern with colored powder onto the fabric. This process is called Naqshi.

Step 4

Phamb and pann are carefully chosen colours for filling in the patterns.

Wostas use fresh colours to depict spring, dark and pastel for summer

yellow for autumn

and dusky and orange for winter.

Step 5

Sozni Kari is practiced in the sanctity of wosta’s homes and some also work in karkhanas (Workshop)

Saint Sheikh-ul-Alam is famously attributed to saying "Haath jaaye par hunar na jaaye" which translates as "I am ok with losing my hands (haath) but I would be absolutely shattered if I were to lose my skill (hunar)".

4-5

autumn/winter hours

approximately for a prayer mat.
Pashmina shawls take upto a month.